California is so vast that there are multiple locations where you could do a literary walking tour. We recently created our own version for Los Angeles before heading off to San Francisco. SF is rather different from its noir ‘Sin City’ counterpart. Throughout history, the metropolis has nurtured bohemian countercultures. With its diverse populace, acceptance of unconventional behaviour, and detachment from mainstream cultural and political hubs, SF has consistently provided a haven for nonconformist thinkers, creators, and visionaries. As a result, here’s our literary tour of San Francisco.

Why is San Francisco famous for its literary culture?

San Francisco’s literary scene is celebrated for a multitude of reasons. Firstly, it holds a consequential place in literary history, being pivotal in movements like the Beat Generation of the 1950s and the countercultural upheavals of the 1960s. Writers such as Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, and Lawrence Ferlinghetti were key figures during these times, painting vivid portraits of the city’s lively and unconventional ambience through their works.

It’s worth checking out Nancy J. Peters’ 1998 essay “Beat Generation and San Francisco’s Culture of Dissent.” She writes that the concept of bohemia captivated writers in early San Francisco, inspired by Henri Murger’s “Scènes de la Vie de Bohème” (1844). This work portrayed life in Paris’s Latin Quarter, where artists had been forsaking their bourgeois backgrounds since the revolution of 1830 to pursue love and a more egalitarian society. By the 1860s word of it had reached San Francisco writers.

At this moment in history, many writers were manual labourers, shopkeepers, housewives, and transient individuals. The gritty tales of pioneers and miners, who endured the perils of migration and settlement, were often so intense that they rivalled the most imaginative fiction.

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Peters states: “The city’s earliest literature, then, was both democratic and anarchic; at the same time, the lawlessness of the city seemed to elicit from some of its poets a nostalgia for classical literary forms and an imagined lost civility of remote times and places”. For 18 months during the 1860s, Mark Twain worked as a journalist in San Francisco. The experience was critical in his development as a writer.

As a result, the city’s diverse population and progressive ethos have cultivated an environment where writers from all walks of life feel welcome. This inclusivity is seen in the wide array of voices and viewpoints that flourish within its borders.

San Francisco also boasts an abundance of institutions, such as the renowned City Lights Bookstore, founded by Ferlinghetti, which champions avant-garde literature. The city hosts various literary gatherings, festivals, and readings that provide platforms for emerging writers to showcase their talents.

Its natural beauty and distinctive setting also play a considerable role in its allure. From the iconic Golden Gate Bridge to the mist-shrouded hills, San Francisco’s picturesque landscapes have served as a wellspring of inspiration for countless writers over the years.

The Golden City’s literary influence extends far beyond its geographical boundaries, shaping American literature. Its writers have fearlessly tackled pressing social and political issues, explored themes of identity and belonging, and captured the essence of urban life. So much so, that we spotted much support for the Palestinian cause at various locations.

Here are some of the best literary spots on the San Francisco tour:

Let me start by saying that San Francisco is far smaller than LA, which means it’s more accessible to get around. With a population of more than 808,000, San Francisco is just a small part of the more than 3.3 million people within the entire metro area. Compare that to LA, which spans 503 square miles with a metropolitan area of 4,850 square miles, and it seems like a town in comparison. However, San Francisco has multiple islands that require crossing via bridges and boats.

So there are a few parts of SF you could explore without venturing too far afield within a day. However, if you have a little more time, you can venture out to both Shakespeare Garden on the other side of the city, as well as opt for a trip to Alcatraz – which is highly recommended.

📚 Robert Frost Plaza. This plaza in the Marina District is named after the American poet Robert Frost. It features a statue of Frost and a plaque with one of his poems. It’s also a nice spot to check out San Francisco’s famous trams.

📚Coit Tower. Bypassing North Beach to get to the highest point, this iconic San Francisco landmark atop Telegraph Hill is connected to Dashiell Hammett’s “The Maltese Falcon.” It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the bay. It is $10 to get in, and while there is a 90-year-old rickety lift, it’s not always in service, so it’s worth bearing in mind as you’d have to climb 13 flights of stairs.

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📚 The Beat Museum. This museum in North Beach is dedicated to the Beat Generation and features exhibits on Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, and other writers of the movement. You’ll find memorabilia, photos, and first editions of their works. It is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and costs $8 to gain entry.

📚 City Lights Bookstore. This North Beach standby is a mecca for bibliophiles, and was a meeting place for the Beat Generation writers like Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg. The store was founded by Lawrence Ferlinghetti and Peter D. Martin in 1953 and is beside the Jack Kerouac Alley and across the road from the Beat Museum. Browse through the shelves or grab a cappuccino at the cafe and soak up the literary vibes.

📚Jack Kerouac Alley. As mentioned, this alleyway between Grant Avenue and Columbus Avenue in North Beach is named after the Beat Generation novelist. It’s adorned with murals depicting scenes from his book “On the Road” and is a popular spot for literary pilgrimages. It also has quotes from his book on the walls.

Read: Brussels literary tour: top spots from Bronte, Bozar, to Boutique Tintin

📚Robert Louis Stevenson Monument. The outdoor memorial commemorating Scottish novelist Robert Louis Stevenson is in Portsmouth Square in Chinatown. Stevenson lived in San Francisco for a time and wrote parts of his famous novel “Treasure Island” here. It was erected in 1972 by The California Historical Society. The inscription reads: “To Remember Robert Louis Stevenson. To be honest, to be kind – to earn a little, to spend a little less – to make upon the whole a family happier for his presence – to renounce when that shall be necessary, and not be embittered – to keep a few friends but these without capitulation – above all on the same grim condition to keep friends with himself – here is a task for all that a man has of fortitude and delicacy.”

📚San Francisco Public Library. Founded in 1977, the San Francisco Public Library is a cornerstone of city culture, offering extensive resources and community programmes. It houses important special collections, including those dedicated to Robert Frost and Sherlock Holmes, as well as a trove of 1,500 volumes by Californian authors. There are also first editions of novels by Jack London. There are tours that take place here.

Visiting further afield from San Francisco

You can’t visit SF without taking a trip out to Alcatraz. While primarily known as a former prison, Alcatraz is often the subject of various crime novels, especially its association with famous criminals like Al Capone. Brandon Sanderson, who has been helping change guidelines for Audible’s audiobooks, is also the writer behind the Alcatraz fantasy series. Fleur Bradley also pens a children’s book series inspired by the island called “Daybreak on Raven Island.”

The only way of reaching Alcatraz is via a 12-minute ferry ride managed by Alcatraz City Cruises, LLC. Their location is on The Embarcadero, close to the junction of Bay Street, just a short distance southeast of Fisherman’s Wharf. Parking facilities are not available at Pier 33. The tours can be pricey, starting at $45.25 per person and can sell out quickly, so it’s worth booking ahead. There is also a seasonal schedule, hence the timings change according to the month. It isn’t that accessible, but there are lifts to get to different parts of the dilapidated prison. There is a buggy that goes from the boat up the hill to the actual complex, but it runs at certain times, so make sure you check the timings when you’re there.

Aside from Alcatraz, Shakespeare Garden within Golden Gate Park is dedicated to the works of the Bard himself. It features plants mentioned in his plays and provides a peaceful dreamy escape. The greenscape was established in 1928 near the city’s botanical gardens. Interspersed among all the floral patches are citations from Shakespeare’s various comedies, sonnets, and tragedies. There’s also a bust of the playwright, which is said to be only one of two in existence.

Don’t forget to check out…

We travelled to Paris for an amazing literary tour, from Père Lachaise Cemetery to the American Library. Not to mention check out the Brussels literary tour, where we visited Bronte, Bozar, as well as the Boutique Tintin. Additionally, UNESCO literature site Vilnius is well worth a visit. Last year, we also got to explore Barcelona and all that it offers.